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HM Travels

I’ve wandered across many of Indonesia’s islands — Bali, Java, Lombok, Komodo, and the Gili chain — each with its own rhythm and charm. Java, of course, carries the weight of the nation, a densely packed hub where most of Indonesia’s people live and work. Yet what I longed for was something wilder: Sumatra, that vast, untamed island stretching across the equator, lightly populated and brimming with mystery. I had originally signed up to climb Mount Kerinci, Indonesia’s highes

Roughly heart-shaped, Tasmania lies just south of Australia’s eastern coast — a rugged, green island known for wild weather, deep forests, and some of the country’s most rewarding hikes. I had heard about the Overland Track for years and finally decided to walk it in the middle of the Tasmanian summer. Knowing that permits for the Overland Track are tightly limited, I checked the Tasmania Parks website and discovered that there was exactly one permit left for December — for a

I recently discovered that South Korea has its own sister pilgrimage to the Camino de Santiago, the Jeju Olle Trail, a network of coastal and inland paths that circle Jeju Island. Jeju, often called the “Hawaii of South Korea,” is a volcanic island roughly 73 km across and 31 km from north to south, known for its dramatic cliffs, lush forests, and a culture shaped by wind, stone, and sea. The trail itself was created in 2007 by Suh Myung‑Suk, a Korean journalist inspired by h

I first learned about the Kumano Kodo—the spiritual sister of Spain’s famed Camino de Santiago—and felt a desire to walk its ancient paths when I walked the Camino Frances. Recently I decided to hike it and arrived in Osaka. From Kansai, leaving the bustle of Osaka behind, I boarded a charming little train bound for Shirahama, its retro design and scenic coastal views already hinting at the journey’s quiet magic. The Kumano Kodo offers two main pilgrimage routes: the forested

I’ve visited Kyoto several times, and each trip reveals something new—like the city is quietly waiting to share its secrets one layer at a time. On a recent journey to walk the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo, I carved out a side trip to Kyoto. I flew into Kansai International Airport, and what I learned about it completely floored me. The airport is built on a massive man-made island—7 kilometers long and 4 kilometers wide—and it actually sinks a little each year. That fa

In my previous three visits to Malaysia, Borneo remained a distant dream—always on the list, never on the itinerary. This time, I finally crossed the South China Sea to explore the island of Borneo -- the third largest island in the world, shared by three nations: Brunei, which claims a sliver of sovereignty; Malaysia, whose states of Sarawak and Sabah hug the northern coast; and Indonesia, which occupies the lion’s share under the name Kalimantan. Flying in domestically to K

Several years ago, I took a ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn and spent a day wandering the cobbled lanes of its enchanting old town. That brief encounter left me wanting more — to see Estonia beyond its postcard-perfect capital. This year, I finally made it happen. I rented a car in Riga, Latvia’s vibrant neighbor to the south, and began the scenic 310-kilometer drive north to Tallinn, tracing the Baltic coastline and crossing into a country I’d long hoped to explore in depth.

After a couple of weeks exploring Argentina’s vineyards and flavors, I boarded a flight bound for La Paz—aware that I was heading into one of the world’s highest cities, perched over 13,500 feet above sea level. Acclimatization was essential, but I arrived at 9 p.m. feeling calm and as soon as I reached my Airbnb, I drifted into a deep sleep. To my surprise, I woke up feeling remarkably well—no pounding headache, no breathless panic. Encouraged by the calm, I set out to explo

Leaving behind the gleaming salt plains of Lake Assale, after witnessing the sunrise, we begun the drive toward the heart of the Danakil...

Lake Assale which is also known as Lake Karum lies in the heart of Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression, a region known for its otherworldly landscapes and extreme climate. Its surface, often reflecting the sky in pale hues, creates a visual calm in an otherwise harsh environment despite temperatures that can soar above 50°C, Situated at approximately 120 meters or 400 feet below the sea level, this hypersaline lake is surrounded by vast salt flats that stretch across the horizon. A

From Lalibela, I boarded a short flight to Gondar, a city often called the Camelot of Africa . Nestled in Ethiopia’s northern highlands,...

For years, Ethiopia called to me with its ancient allure, but nothing stirred my curiosity more than the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela — a UNESCO World Heritage site and a marvel carved out of a monolithic stone. Perched in the Lasta Mountains of northern Ethiopia, this highland town offers breathtaking views and the portal to visit the ancient churches carved directly into the rugged terrain. Flying out of Addis Ababa with Ethiopian Airlines, I landed at Lalibela’s quiet ai

Addis Ababa, the vibrant capital of Ethiopia, is the heart of a nation home to over 126 million people. This high-altitude city is at approximately 2,355 meters (7,726 feet) above sea level — one of the highest capital cities in the world. From its bustling markets and historic cathedrals to its role as the diplomatic hub of Africa, Addis Ababa offers a compelling glimpse into Ethiopia’s rich cultural mosaic and its growing global influence. I arrived there in May, and the we

In April 2025, three longtime friends—me included—set out to walk the 280 km Camino Portuguese from Porto, Portugal to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. This was a follow-up to my solo Camino Frances trek in 2024, a journey of 850 km across northern Spain. This time, with over thirty years of friendship between us, camaraderie was at the heart of our adventure. The trip began with the usual chaos that budget airlines can inspire. RyanAir demanded a series of app-based steps just

About an hour drive from Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, it a UNESCO world heritage site, Gobustan which is also written with a Q. There is a prehistoric cultural site as well as a geothermal phenomenon that attracts tourists here and I was on my way to see the Mud Volcanoes. I was told that there is a government managed site that one can drive to and see these. I also heard that the real ones are in the wilderness and need a 4x4 vehicle as the roads to it are non-existent.

Dharamsala is a beautiful city on the foothills of the himalayas in the state of Himachal Pradesh. It is the place that has hosted the Dalai Lama for the past several decades. There are several beautiful hikes that start from Dharamsala and I decided to do a short day hike with a guide. The route to the start of the hike is a dense forest and the road is uneven. The tall old-growth trees are mesmerizing and remind me of California forests. After about an hour of driving on re

Amritsar, a city very close to India's border with Pakistan has the most holy temple for the Sikh religion named Harmandir Sahib , popularly called the Golden Temple. On a clear day, I landed, checked in, and headed straight to Sikhism’s holiest shrine — the stunning Golden Temple, wrapped in the calm embrace of the Amrit Sarovar. Inside its sacred walls, the Akal Takht is housed, the highest seat of Sikh spiritual authority. From every angle, the Golden Temple was a visual e

Oman is a beautiful desert dominated country on the Arabian sea and Gulf of Oman. A country with about 5 million population, 40% of it is composed of foreign guest workers. As I got out of the airport, I was happy to see cleanliness everywhere and everything was very well organized. I had booked a rental car, but when I reached the counter, I had no confirmation number on it, somehow it had gotten lost. Dreading to be taken advantage of, I was pleasantly surprised to hear th

Driving to the city of Muscat from their international airport, you cannot miss the ornate mosque on the way. It is the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque . Built by 2001, this mosque is huge and can host twenty thousand worshippers. The large grounds around it look like an oasis. On a sunny day, I decided to visit the mosque. It is customary to wear full pants, shorts are not allowed. There is an entry ticket, but it was not being charged on the day I visited. From the entry door, t

Kochi or Cochin as it used to be called before the name was re-changed to its original form, is a city in south India in the state of Kerala. It is a historic trading port and traded with the Romans, Persians, Arabs, and Chinese. Taken over by the Portuguese, then Dutch in the 16th century, it was later ruled by the British. In my recent visit, I enjoyed a boat trip in the Kochi backwaters. Right at the start, I was greeted by cormorants, lounging on a chinese fishing net st